We’re excited to add Paragon Pro to the WeSellPerformance lineup—purpose-built driver cooling that balances simplicity, performance, and modular upgrades. Whether you’re lapping at HPDE, sprinting in club racing, or grinding out endurance stints, Paragon’s Viking family keeps your core temp stable so your brain stays sharp and your lap times stay boringly consistent. (That’s the good kind of boring.)
Why Driver Cooling Matters: Comfort, Consistency, Focus
No hype—just physics. When your core temperature spikes, your body redirects resources to cooling, not decision-making. Stable core temps help reduce distraction, mental mistakes, and fatigue over a session. Result: steadier braking points, fewer “hero-lap” brain farts, and more repeatable pace.
Pre-grid “ice-up” routine:
- Fill your cooler with ice to ~70–80% and top with water. Prime the pump for a few seconds (shirt on, hoses connected).
- With Viking Pro, connect helmet air and run the blower briefly to pre-chill the airstream.
- Stage with the system running at low duty (12V), then switch to full flow as you roll to grid.
Between-session care: Drain a little water if the box gets too diluted, top off ice, check quick-disconnect O-rings, and clear debris from pump filters. If you’re stacking back-to-back sessions, keep a small cooler of spare ice nearby and refresh fast.
Build Your Kit in our Paragon Pro collection
Buyer’s Guide: Viking vs. Viking Pro vs. Pro Dual—What Fits You?
Paragon builds on one box and three approaches:
Viking (Water-Only)
- What it is: Compact 12V water-circulation cooler that pumps chilled water through a cooling shirt.
- Best for: HPDE and sprint sessions where helmet air isn’t required.
- Pick it if: You’re squeezing the system into tight spaces, want the lightest setup, and prefer absolute simplicity.
Viking Pro (Air + Water)
- What it adds: An internal U-shaped tube that integrates with a blower for helmet cooling, plus the water loop for your shirt.
- Best for: Club racing and hotter HPDE days; anyone who wants cooled air in the lid without a second box.
- Pick it if: You value a single, clean system for both shirt and helmet.
Viking Pro Dual (Two Pumps)
- What it adds: Dual 12V pumps for higher flow, redundancy, or split circuits (e.g., shirt + extra garment/longer runs).
- Best for: Endurance racing, long stints, or drivers who want maximum throughput and backup.
- Pick it if: You’re chasing 60–120-minute stints, or you want “belt-and-suspenders” reliability.
12L vs. 18L? 12-liter boxes are tidy and light—great for short sessions and small cabins. 18-liter boxes hold more ice mass for longer cooling windows—ideal for hot climates, bigger cars, or endurance stints.
Install Tips: Mounting, Power, Hose Routing & Helmet Air
Mounting Locations
- Trunk/hatch: Lowest splash risk, easy ice access. Secure with a tray and straps.
- Rear seat delete / passenger footwell: Short hose runs; ensure hoses can’t snag belts or pedals.
Helpful hardware: Mounting trays make life easier and safer. For 12L coolers use the Viking 12L Tray (SKU M100_12-28000). For 18L coolers use the Viking 18L Tray (SKU M100_18-28000). Add a spare Tray Strap (SKU M100_01-28000).
12V Power Basics
- Use a fused circuit (inline 10A is a common spec), ring terminals on clean chassis power/ground, and proper crimp + heat-shrink.
- A switched 12V source prevents accidental overnight drains; a dedicated switch on your panel is ideal.
Hose Routing & Quick-Disconnects
- Run water lines along factory tunnels where possible. Secure every 12–18" with P-clamps or zip ties.
- Use Guardian quick-release hose sets: 8ft Hose Kit (SKU M100_08-31000) or 12ft Hose Kit (SKU M100_12-31000).
Helmet-Air Integration (Viking Pro/Pro Dual)
- Connect the Pro’s internal U-tube to your blower and helmet port. Start with Helmet Blower 240 CFM (SKU M100_01-45000) and the correct bulkhead/adapter fittings (4" to 1.25" Fitting, SKU M100_41-45000 or 4" to 3" Fitting, SKU M100_43-45000).
- For helmets without an internal duct, use the Helmet Cooling Insert (SKU M100_01-16200).
Tools You’ll Want
- Socket set (10mm/13mm typical), torque wrench, drill + step bit
- P-clamps, zip ties, edge guard for pass-throughs
- Crimper, heat-shrink, inline fuse holder (10A), ring/spade terminals
- Distilled water, ice, and Paragon Fluid Defense additive (SKU M100_01-50000)
Track-Day Ready: The Complete Paragon Pro Kit Checklist
- Cooler: Choose 12L or 18L; Viking Pro for helmet air.
- Cooling shirt: Example: Ignite Pro Shirt X-Large Left Exit (SKU M100_61-11111) (sizes/exit sides vary).
- Hoses: 8ft (M100_08-31000) or 12ft (M100_12-31000).
- Bulkhead/tray/fittings: 12L Tray (M100_12-28000), 18L Tray (M100_18-28000), 1.25" Hose End (M100_12-45000).
- Helmet air (Pro): Blower 240 CFM (M100_01-45000) + Cooling Insert (M100_01-16200) + fittings above.
- Power pigtail: Use a fused 12V circuit (10A typical). Many drivers wire to a switched panel; others use a dedicated, fused accessory lead.
- Spare ice + additive: Keep a dedicated ice cooler and Defense Solution (M100_01-50000).
Want it done for you? Hit the Paragon Pro collection and tap “Contact” for pre-built, team-ready kits.
Specs & Ready-to-Buy Bundles
| System | Capacity Options | Pumps | Helmet Air | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Viking (Water-Only) | 12L, 18L | Single 12V | No (shirt only) | HPDE, sprint stints, tight spaces |
| Viking Pro (Air + Water) | 12L, 18L | Single 12V | Yes (U-tube + blower) | Club racing, hot HPDE days |
| Viking Pro Dual | 12L (common), 18L (varies) | Dual 12V | Yes (U-tube + blower) | Endurance, long stints, redundancy |
Click-and-Buy Bundles
- Sprint/HPDE Air + Water (12L): Viking Pro Bundle 12L—Air & Water (SKU M100_01-81000)
- Club/Hot-Climate Air + Water (18L): Build your own with:
-
Water-Only Budget (Tight Space):
- Viking 12L Cooler—Water Only (SKU M100_12-20000)
- 8ft Guardian Hose Kit (SKU M100_08-31000)
- Any Paragon cooling shirt from our collection (see sizes in the Paragon Pro collection)
Got questions or a team order? Ping us—happy to quote multi-driver endurance bundles and spares.
Related Brands & Collections
Tell us your best (or worst) hot-lap cool-down stories in the comments! What worked, what didn’t, and what you’d change before your next event?
