Welcome to our “Ridetech Paths” series: high-intent buyer’s guides built around how Ridetech actually organizes solutions by application. The goal is simple: help you buy once, cry never, and end up with a car that drives like it looks.
Platform today: 1968–1972 GM A-Body. The icons. The legends. The cars that look like they should handle… right up until the first freeway on-ramp reminds you it’s still 50+ years old.
Quick shopping links (browse first, read later)
- Shop all Ridetech parts
- Shop Suspension Kits
- Shop Shocks & Shock Hardware
- Shop Air Suspension, Coil Springs, Coilovers, & Leaf Springs
- Shop Control Arms, Sway Bars, Bushings, Mounts, Etc.
- StreetGrip System (Small Block) – No bushings/ball joints (SKU: ART-11245012)
- StreetGrip System (Big Block) – No bushings/ball joints (SKU: ART-11245112)
- HQ Coil-Over System with Hub Spindles (A-Body) (SKU: ART-11240202)
- MOMENTUM Chassis (’68–’72 A-Body, pin spindle, stock width) (SKU: ART-11243799)
- Front & Rear TQ Coil-Overs (for Ridetech chassis) (SKU: ART-11243811)
- Front & Rear TQ ShockWaves (for Ridetech chassis) (SKU: ART-11243911)
- Rear Sway Bar (A-Body) (SKU: ART-11249122)
What you’re actually solving (A-Body edition)
Most 1968–1972 A-Body cars are fighting the same three enemies:
- Old geometry + old bushings = vague steering feel, wandering, and “why does it do that?” moments.
- Body roll + slow response = the car takes a beat to set, then takes another beat to recover.
- Ride height compromises = you want the stance, but you still want the suspension to have travel (and your exhaust to survive).
Ridetech’s “paths” are basically different ways to fix those problems depending on your budget, your tolerance for wrenching, and whether you want to adjust ride height with a spanner wrench… or a button.
Path 1: StreetGrip (bolt-on “huge upgrade”)
Best for: restomods, cruisers, weekend warriors, “I want it to drive right without turning it into a science project.”
StreetGrip is the classic “make it feel modern” move. Think: better stance, better control, and a car that stops doing the floaty-old-car shuffle every time the pavement changes texture.
- Small block A-Body option: StreetGrip (SB) – No bushings/ball joints (SKU: ART-11245012)
- Big block A-Body option: StreetGrip (BB) – No bushings/ball joints (SKU: ART-11245112)
If your car is still rocking mystery-year rubber bushings, that’s where a lot of “classic car feel” comes from. StreetGrip kits come in different configurations, so double-check whether your chosen kit includes bushings/ball joints or assumes you’re handling those separately.
Nice add-on for tightening the whole deal: Rear Sway Bar (SKU: ART-11249122).
Path 2: Coil-Over System (tune everything)
Best for: pro-touring builds, autocross/track days, “I want to dial this in,” and anyone who gets joy from adjusting rebound clicks and then pretending they didn’t just spend 40 minutes chasing one click.
This is the “modern handling backbone” path. Coil-overs give you ride height control and tuning range. On an A-Body, that usually also means geometry corrections (because tire contact patch is life).
Start here: HQ Coil-Over System with Hub Spindles (SKU: ART-11240202).
- Why it works: coil-overs + corrected geometry = quicker response, better camber control, and a car that feels planted instead of “politely negotiating.”
- What to expect: more install time than StreetGrip, and alignment becomes non-negotiable (like torque specs and coffee).
Doing coil-overs while leaving sloppy steering/old links untouched. If your front end has play, you’ll feel it more, not less. If you’re chasing “tight and modern,” plan to refresh the supporting parts as needed.
Path 3: MOMENTUM Chassis (full send)
Best for: high-end pro-touring, big power, big tire goals, “I want a modern foundation,” and builders who are okay with the words body-off showing up in the group chat.
The MOMENTUM Chassis path is for people who want to remove the factory limitations and start from a purpose-built performance foundation. It’s also the cleanest way to go from “classic muscle car” to “this thing has no business driving this well.”
Start here: MOMENTUM Chassis (’68–’72 A-Body) (SKU: ART-11243799).
Then you pick your suspension flavor on the Ridetech chassis:
- Coil-over flavor: Front & Rear TQ Coil-Overs (SKU: ART-11243811)
- Air ride flavor: Front & Rear TQ ShockWaves (SKU: ART-11243911)
A chassis swap is a “whole build” decision. If you’re already planning major drivetrain changes, mini-tubs, big tire fitment, or a next-level pro-touring outcome, this can actually be the most direct path. If your goal is “better driving on weekends,” start with StreetGrip or a coil-over system first.
Pick your path (fast chooser)
| Path | Best for | Adjustability | Install vibe |
|---|---|---|---|
| StreetGrip | Restomod, street, “big upgrade” | Low–Medium | Bolt-on weekend |
| Coil-Over System | Pro-touring, track/autocross | High | More parts, alignment required |
| MOMENTUM Chassis | Max performance foundation | Very High | Body-off build territory |
If you’re stuck between two: pick the one that matches your real driving. Not your “someday I’ll track it” fantasy. (We support the fantasy. We just don’t want it choosing your parts.)
Tools & safety gear
Safety first: Suspension work can hurt you fast if the car isn’t supported correctly. If you’re not comfortable working with loaded suspension, springs, or steering components, get a qualified shop involved.
- PPE: safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection (if using impact tools)
- Support: quality jack + jack stands, wheel chocks, flat level workspace
- Basics: socket/ratchet sets, breaker bar, torque wrench, pry bars, dead blow hammer
- Helpful: ball joint separator/pickle fork (or proper puller), penetrating oil, paint marker
- Must-do: post-install alignment (and re-torque after initial shakedown)
Modifications may affect warranty, emissions compliance, and roadworthiness depending on your location and vehicle. Drive responsibly. Better handling is not a substitute for good decisions.
FAQ
Do I need “big block” StreetGrip if I swapped in an LS?
It depends on front-end weight and how the car sits today. If your car is nose-heavy, you’ll typically lean toward the heavier-spring setup. If you’re not sure, tell us your engine/accessory setup and ride height goal and we’ll help you sanity-check the direction.
Can I mix and match parts across these paths?
Sometimes, yes. But the whole point of “paths” is compatibility. If you’re mixing, do it intentionally: confirm geometry, spring rates, and shock lengths all agree with each other.
What’s the “best” path?
The best path is the one you’ll actually finish. StreetGrip is the champion of finished projects. Coil-overs win on tuning. MOMENTUM wins on maximum foundation (and maximum commitment).
Wrap-up (and your turn)
That’s the quick map for A-Body Ridetech paths:
- StreetGrip if you want a big improvement without reinventing the car.
- Coil-Over System if you want to tune ride height and handling like a modern performance car.
- MOMENTUM Chassis if you want a modern foundation and you’re ready for a real build.
Now tell us: What A-Body are you building (Chevelle, GTO, Cutlass, Skylark, 442, El Camino)? And which path are you leaning toward? Bonus points for sharing your most relatable “it drove fine until…” suspension story in the comments.
Related Posts
- Full Chassis vs Subframe: Pick Your Ridetech Path
- Ridetech Tech Tools: Spring Rate & Shock Length Basics
- Ridetech Coilovers vs StreetGrip: Which Fits?
Related Categories
- Ridetech
- Suspension Kits
- Shocks and Shock Hardware
- Air Suspension, Coil Springs, Coilovers, & Leaf Springs
- Control Arms, Sway Bars, Bushings, Mounts, Etc.
Related Brands
Disclaimer
The information provided in this post is intended for general knowledge and should not replace advice from a qualified automotive professional. Making modifications to your vehicle may affect warranties, especially on new or leased cars. Always check with your manufacturer or dealer regarding warranty implications before modifying your vehicle. Know your own limits—when in doubt, consult a professional to ensure safe and effective modifications. Remember, responsible driving is key. While performance enhancements can make driving more enjoyable, they are no substitute for safe, respectful driving on public roads. Drive smart, and always prioritize safety.
